Thursday 25 July 2024

Mr Rice Guy - Japanese Rice Lager - All Grain Recipe

 

Foreword

We're on a mission to try out all the different types of lagers, and next up is a Japanese rice lager. We're big fans of Japanese lagers, especially Asahi, so if we can whip up something even close to that, we'll be pretty happy.

The recipe is straightforward with just pilsner malt and flaked rice. Honestly, we don't feel like dealing with the hassle of a full cereal mash, so flaked rice is a perfect shortcut since it can go straight into the mash with the pilsner malt.

The mash schedule is a bit unique, with a 30-minute rest at 63°C and another 30-minute rest at 70°C. This should help us get maximum fermentability and hopefully give us a nice low finishing gravity and dry finish.

For hops, we're using Hallertau Tradition because we've got some leftover from previous batches. And for yeast, we're switching things up with W34/70 instead of our usual Novalager, just for a change of pace. Though, Novalager will probably stay our go-to lager yeast in the future.

Vitals

Batch Volume: 22L 
Boil Time: 60 minutes
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75%

Original Gravity: 1.044
Final Gravity: 1.007
IBU (Tinseth): 19
BU/GU: 0.44
Colour: 5.7 EBC
Expected ABV: 4.9%

Mash

Mash Step 1: 63°C - 30 minutes
Mash Step 2: 70°C - 30 minutes
Mash Out: 75°C - 10 minutes

Fermentables

3.0kg - Gladfield Pilsner Malt
1.5kg - Flaked Rice

Hops

60 mins - Hallertau Tradition - 22g - 14 IBU
10 mins - Hallertau Tradition - 25g - 5 IBU

Yeast

Fermentis Saflager W-34/70 - Dry - 2 Packets

Fermentation

10°C - 5 days
13°C - 2 days
17°C - 1 day
19°C - 1 day

Carbonation

2.4 CO2-vol

Water Profile 

"Balanced" water profile

Ca2+ (Calcium): 34
Mg2+ (Magnesium): 10
Na+ (Sodium): 29
Cl- (Chloride): 70
SO42- (Sulfate): 70
HCO3- (Bicarbonate): 37


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Tuesday 23 July 2024

KegLand - Premium Stainless Steel Drill Powered Mash Stirrer - Review

Let's face it, brewing beer is a delightful blend of art and science, but nobody wants to spend eons stirring like a medieval alchemist. Enter the KegLand Premium Stainless Steel Drill Powered Mash Stirrer & Mixer (KL32247) - a bit like the superhero of your brewing toolkit.

Imagine a giant kitchen mixer for your brew day, hooked up to your trusty drill. It's simple, effective, and surprisingly fun.

Crafted entirely from stainless steel (because brewers love shiny, easy-to-clean things), this mixer is built to last. At 600mm long, it might feel a bit lengthy when attached to your drill, but that length ensures it can reach the depths of even the mightiest brew kettle without breaking a sweat. KegLand recommends it for use in their 35L, 65L, and 100L BrewZilla units.

We've used it in the 35L BrewZilla (3.1.1 version), and find the 70mm mixer diameter is a good working size - large enough to be effective but small enough so it can be maneuvered around, particular if you're using the overflow pipe.

The hex drive end should fit any electric drill and ensures a good grip to avoid slippage. Depending on your water to grist ratio and what your grist is made of, there's a surprising amount of torque required to turn the paddle - but we'd recommend a slow and steady mixing speed, there's really no need to be stirring your mash bed at 10,000 rpm. It's also worth mentioning to be careful when moving the mixing head towards the top of the grain bed to ensure you don't go spraying wort and bits of grain everywhere.

Properly mixing your grains into your mash water is important to ensure you don't end up with clumps of dried grain, commonly known as "dough balls" which will cause a drop in your efficiency, since the dry grains contained in the middle of the ball aren't wetted and therefore can't have their starches converted to sugars during the mashing process. Stirring with a regular mash paddle can do the same but takes longer and requires more effort.

As for its effectiveness, after using the stirrer in several batches, we’ve consistently seen a slightly higher pre-boil efficiency. With no other equipment changes made during these batches, we’re attributing this to the stirrer. We’re talking maybe 2 or 3 gravity points here - not huge, but definitely noticeable. It might be a worthwhile addition to your brewing arsenal if you’re consistently falling a little short of your expected efficiency.

So, if you're tired of arm day at the brewery and looking to upgrade your mash game, check out the Premium Stainless Steel Drill Powered Mash Stirrer & Mixer, available at kegland.com.au and other KegLand distributors for AUD$24.95.


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Monday 15 July 2024

Raspberry Sour - Tasting Notes/Review

Our inaugural attempt at crafting a sour beer has yielded delightful results that exceed our expectations. Utilizing Philly Sour yeast proved to be a winning choice, aligning closely with the experiences of others who have explored its capabilities.

To begin, we characterize this brew more as a "tart" fruit beer than a "sour," offering a nuanced tang that remains approachable, even for those typically averse to sour styles.

Visually striking, our creation boasts a brilliant ruby-red hue, complemented by a fluffy, pinkish-white head - a stunning result of incorporating 2.5kg of defrosted raspberries directly into the fermenter. Its remarkable clarity further enhances its appeal.

The aroma is dominated by ripe raspberry notes, subtly underscored by a hint of funky complexity, offering a preview of its intriguing profile.

Upon the first sip, raspberry takes the lead, its natural sweetness tempered by fermentation yet still discernible, delivering a refreshing burst of flavor. The tartness gradually emerges, accompanied by a pleasantly dry finish that invites repeated enjoyment.

The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, with minimal hop presence, aligning with our deliberate low IBU strategy. We are intrigued by the idea of slightly increasing IBUs, possibly to 15-20, to explore how it might interplay with the raspberry character.

The raspberry essence is pronounced throughout, so much so that one might mistake it for a raspberry cider, albeit with a fuller mouthfeel that distinguishes it from typical ciders.

Ideal for summer despite its winter inception, this brew proves exceptionally refreshing.

We are immensely satisfied with our inaugural batch and look forward to further experimentation. Future iterations may feature different fruits - passionfruit or mango perhaps, while maintaining our current fruit dosage, which we find perfectly balanced.

Considering adding lactose to enhance residual sweetness is another avenue we contemplate, albeit cautiously, to avoid straying into the "milkshake sour" territory.

Moreover, we are eager to fine-tune bitterness levels to achieve better harmony with sweetness.

Special commendation goes to Philly Sour yeast, which truly shines in this brew. Its simplicity in use, sparing us from more aggressive bacteria or culture introductions, makes brewing such beers far less daunting.

With this success under our belt, we eagerly anticipate refining our skills with future sour beer endeavors.


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Wednesday 10 July 2024

Awesome 4Some - West Coast IPA - Tasting Results & Review

Here’s a quick update to wrap things up – unfortunately, this brew didn’t make the cut (i.e., we ended up pouring it down the drain). It’s only the second time we’ve had to do this, but life’s too short to settle for subpar beer.

We’ve pinpointed where this batch (and a previous one) went awry: elevated sulfate levels and a particularly high sulfate-to-chloride ratio stripped away all hop flavor and aroma. What remained was a beer that was overly sweet yet aggressively bitter, far from enjoyable.

We followed the "Hoppy" water profile in Brewfather, a tool we’ve used in several other brews. Reflecting on those, we did notice a lack of hop aroma as well, prompting us to make adjustments for future batches. This particular water profile recommends nearly 300ppm of sulfate, which, while not uncommon, hasn’t delivered the desired outcomes for the styles we aim to perfect.

Our brewing techniques are solid; we’ve achieved success with heavily hopped beers like our Hazy Pale Ale, which notably didn’t use the Brewfather hoppy water profile!

It’s disappointing to see a beer not meet expectations, especially considering the investment in quality ingredients like a substantial grain bill and generous hop additions.

We remain confident in the recipe itself and are convinced that tweaking the water profile (reducing sulfate levels) will yield a vastly improved brew. Thus, we’ll likely revisit this recipe in the future.

In brewing, not every batch is a triumph, and we’re not afraid to share our setbacks in hopes of aiding others. These experiences contribute to our growth as brewers in the long run.

Friday 28 June 2024

Homebrewery - Undersink Water Filter Installation

There's no disputing the importance of water when brewing your own beer - being the single biggest ingredient, it's critical you're using quality and good tasting water when making your beer. Unsurprisingly, if you're water quality and taste is poor, then this will likely have a detrimental impact on your beer.

We had a water outlet installed in our garage as part of your new house build specifically for brewing purposes, and we've finally gotten around to installing a water filter to be able to treat our brewing water prior to use.

The tap water itself is pretty ordinary straight out of the tap - with a very strong chlorine taste and smell. We've been using our built in fridge water filter for drinking and brewing water, which is only a basic, single stage filter, so we figured something similar should be all that's required to treat our brewing water - and will save us carting 30 odd litres of water from the kitchen to the garage every time we want to brew!

We opted for the Britani Undercounter Single Stage Filter kit - selling for around $90 at Bunnings. It comes with a tap which we've opted not to use for now, but may come in handy later as we could potentially install it into the industrial sink we've installed in the garage.

The kit comes with everything you need to install using the tap, but since we're opting for a slightly different installation, we opted for an additional ball valve and some extra line/tubing - more on that shortly.

Installation was super easy, with push in fittings that were familiar in operation to us as we almost exclusively use Duotight push in fittings for all our brewing connections.

The filter housing itself is mounted using four included screws onto the wall. Handy tip though, make sure you unscrew the housing and remove the plastic wrap from the filter itself located inside (we didn't realise this was required and nearly blew the housing apart when we first turned it on!)


Here's how the final installation looks - and while it could arguably be done a bit neater, we were hindered a little bit by the fact that the water flows from right to left through the filter, where we really needed it to flow from left to right.

From the T-piece adapter on the tap, you can see the hose then connects to a flow restrictor/non-return valve, and then loops around and into the right side of the filter housing. The hose then comes out of the left side of the filter housing.


Here's a close-up of the included adapter which screws straight onto the existing wall outlet. The existing hose for the regular kitchen tap screws back onto the top, and the white line is then connected via push-in fittings to the water filter as outlined above. There's also a handy shut off valve you can see there that is recommended be switched off if the filter is not going to be used for more than a day or so and gives an element of protection against a push-in fitting failure or blow out.


As previously mentioned, we fitted a ball valve which also uses the same push in fittings so we can easily open/shut the flow of water without needing to use the main shutoff valve we mentioned in the previous photo. After a couple of brews this has worked incredibly well, as we bought a 3m length of tubing that gives us good flexibility so we can fill our BrewZilla and Digiboil units in-place in the garage without needing to lug them around when they're full of 20L of water.


A simple clamp on the top of the unit holds the hose in place whilst filling - which does take some time but certainly faster and easier than carting water from the fridge water filter.

The included filter is a 5 micron carbon filter which removes chlorine flavours/odours, as well as sediment, but doesn't change the ion content of the water. This works well for us and leaves us with chlorine-free, great tasting water to use as a base for our brewing. We may look at replacing the cartridge in the future with one that filters out a bit more but we're certainly happy with the performance we're getting from this one.

It's well worth considering a water filter system like this if you aren't currently using one to help improve the quality of your brewing water. It's also super easy to install and setup, especially if you don't need to use an actual tap and are happy with a simple ball valve solution for controlling the flow of water from the filter.


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Thursday 27 June 2024

Stone & Wood Pacific Ale - Official Recipe

We've had a couple of attempts at brewing the Stone & Wood Pacific Ale, and whilst our attempts have been OK, we're still not quite there in terms of accurately replicating this awesome beer.

In a recent breakthrough though, we have stumbled across a post on the Aussiehomebrewer forums where a user claims to have obtained the official recipe from an ex-Stone & Wood brewer.

You can check out the forum thread here - but we'll outline the quoted recipe below;

Original Gravity: 1.043
IBU: 24
Malts: 60% Pilsner Malt, 40% Wheat Malt 
Hops:
Galaxy @ 20 mins - 6 IBU
Galaxy @ 10 mins - 9 IBU
Galaxy @ 5 mins - 9 IBU
Galaxy Dry Hop - 3g/L - 7 Days

Yeast: Safale US-05

Most of this was already known - though we had been using pale malt instead of pilsner. Pilsner makes sense and explains why ours always turned out darker, but the 60/40 split is fairly well known and is what we have used. IBU's were also known, as well as the fact that it uses only Galaxy hops, but having a hop schedule like this certainly helps!

Needless to say, we're going to have another crack at this one very soon. We strongly suspect that our water profile has previously been a shortcoming in getting the flavour and mouthfeel right for this (too much sulfate) so this is something we'll also be addressing in our 3rd attempt at brewing this.

This should provide an excellent starting point for anyone looking to make this themselves.

Full recipe is below;

Vitals

Batch Volume: 23L 
Boil Time: 30 minutes
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75%

Original Gravity: 1.043
Final Gravity: 1.009
IBU (Tinseth): 24
BU/GU: 0.57
Colour: 6.1 EBC
Expected ABV: 4.5%

Mash

Temperature: 67°c - 60 minutes
Mash Out: 75°c - 10 minutes

Malts

2.6 kg - Gladfield Pilsner Malt (60%)
1.8 kg - Gladfield Wheat Malt (40%)

Hops

20 mins - Galaxy - 7g - 13.4% (6 IBU)
10 mins - Galaxy - 15g - 13.4% (9 IBU)
05 mins - Galaxy - 30g - 13.4% (9 IBU)
00 mins - Galaxy - 30g - 13.4% (0 IBU)

Dry Hop - Galaxy 70g - 7 days? (3g/L)

Yeast

Fermentis SafAle US-05 (1 packet - dry)

Fermentation

20c for 14 days

Carbonation

2.4 CO2-vol

Water Profile 

Ca2+ (Calcium): 75
Mg2+ (Magnesium): 5
Na+ (Sodium): 10
Cl- (Chloride): 50
SO42- (Sulfate): 150
HCO3- (Bicarbonate): 0

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Monday 24 June 2024

Pacific Pale Ale - BrewZilla Brew Day


Here's the rundown from our latest BrewZilla Brew Day for our Pacific Pale Ale

We started off collecting our source water. We recently installed a single stage under sink water filter so we can fill our BrewZilla and Digiboil sparge water vessels much more quickly than our previous method of using the in built fridge water filter in the kitchen.

Not a particularly large grain bill at 4.7kgs. With 21L of mash water, there was plenty of head space left and made for a quick and easy mash in.

We left the grain bed to settle for 10 minutes before taking our first pH meter reading. 5.54 was a bit high so we added another 0.5mL of phosphoric acid.

Second pH reading 5.39 - right in the middle of the 5.2 - 5.6 range, so we were happy with this.

We began recirculating the wort using the sargeant sparge head

We had really good recirculation which we were a little surprised by. Even with a relatively low amount of malted wheat (~8%) we expected to have to work the grain bed a bit more (but it was nice that we didn't!)

Mash temp was a consistent 65°C. Since we didn't need to mess with stirring the grain bed too much, our mash temp was bang on for pretty much the entire mash with only very minor temperature adjustments on the BrewZilla required.

After the 60 minute mash, we raised the temperature of the grain bed to 75°C for the mash out.

Wort starting to run much clearer at the end of the mash compared to the start

Raising the grain basket out of the BrewZilla is always a nerve-wracking experience for us. The handle doesn't fit perfectly and we're always worried it's going to slip out and send the grain basket crashing back into the unit which would splash hot sticky wort everywhere. Hasn't happened to us yet though.

Grain bed lifted and sparging begun. We tried using an automated sparging system using a pump but we find manual sparging using a simple 2L jug gives us better efficiency.

Much like the mash, the sparge went really well with no stirring of the grain bed required to get the sparge water flowing through.

Pre-boil gravity of 1.047 - a couple of points higher than expected. Nice win and a tiny bit more ABV now to be expected.

Pre-boil mash pH remains pretty much the same at 5.42 (3 points higher than measured value at start of mash)

Simcoe and Mosaic hops ready to go

Measuring out our first hop addition - 11g of Mosaic to be added at beginning of boil to provide the majority of bitterness.

Waiting for the boil - hot break starting to from on top

Pre-boil volume of 25.5L - spot on. 

Boil now underway, so first hop addition to be added.

Measuring out our second hop addition of Simcoe and Mosaic hops (to be added with 10 minutes left in the boil). We always like to document these to remove any doubt as to whether we added the right amounts or not!

Yeast nutrient and 1/2 a whirlfloc tablet also measured out to be added with 10 minutes remaining.

10 minute hop addition going in.

Measuring out the final whirlpool hop addition

At the conclusion of the 30 minute  boil we chilled the wort to around 80°C (83 is close enough) and added the final hops and began recirculating the wort using the whirlpool arm attachment for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes we continued chilling until the wort was around 25°C. 

One of the great things about winter brewing is the town water is super cold so we're able to get from boil/whirlpool temp to low 20's in around 10-15 minutes, which we can't get anywhere close to in the warmer months!

Starting gravity of 1.050 - a couple points higher than the recipe, but expected after we had a slightly higher pre-boil gravity.


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